How to Remove Lead from Tap Water
Lead doesn’t announce itself. You can’t smell it, taste it, or see it at the levels typically found in tap water. The only way to know if you have a lead problem is to test. And the only reliable way to remove it is a filter that’s actually certified for lead reduction.
This guide covers what works, what doesn’t, and how to verify you’re getting actual protection.
Test Before You Filter
Before you buy anything, run a certified lab lead test on your tap water. A test tells you whether you have a lead problem and how serious it is. Without a test result, you’re buying a filter for a problem that may or may not exist.
Key testing notes:
Collect a “first draw” sample. This means collecting water from the kitchen tap first thing in the morning, before running any water. Water that sat overnight in pipes has maximum contact time with any lead plumbing components. First draw samples give you the worst-case reading.
Some labs offer a two-sample protocol: one first draw sample and one after flushing the tap for 30 seconds. The difference between the two tells you where the lead is entering, whether it’s in your home’s internal plumbing or at the service line connection.
For the full testing walkthrough, see how to test for lead in water.
What Actually Removes Lead
Two filter technologies have solid evidence for lead removal and are independently certified for it.
Reverse osmosis (NSF/ANSI 58) is the most thorough option. RO systems force water through a semipermeable membrane that blocks particles including dissolved lead. NSF 58-certified systems remove 97 to 99% of lead in third-party testing. An under-sink RO system treats water at the kitchen tap, which is where you’re drinking and cooking. That’s where it needs to work.
RO also removes PFAS, nitrates, arsenic, and fluoride. If your water test showed lead alongside any other dissolved contaminants, RO handles all of them in one system.
Solid carbon block filters (NSF/ANSI 53) are a simpler, lower-cost option. Not all carbon filters remove lead, and NSF 53 certification is model and cartridge specific. A filter certified under NSF 42 (taste and odor only) will not remove lead even if it looks identical to an NSF 53-certified model. Check the specific certification.
Solid carbon block construction matters. Granular activated carbon (GAC) filters don’t perform as reliably for lead as solid block carbon. If you’re relying on a faucet filter or under-sink carbon filter for lead, verify it’s a solid block and that it specifically lists lead in its NSF 53 certification scope.
What Doesn’t Work
Boiling water concentrates lead. As water boils away as steam, lead stays behind. Never boil water to address a lead concern.
Standard pitcher filters like basic Brita cartridges are certified to NSF 42 only, which covers chlorine taste and odor, not lead. The Brita Longlast cartridge is certified to NSF 53 for lead. ZeroWater pitchers are certified for lead reduction. Clearly Filtered pitchers are certified for lead reduction. But you need to verify the specific product and cartridge, not just the brand.
Water softeners do not remove lead. Softeners exchange calcium and magnesium for sodium. Lead is a different contaminant that requires a different technology.
Whole-house carbon filters typically use GAC media and are not certified for lead removal. Lead enters water at plumbing fixtures and service lines, not before the water enters the home. Whole-house treatment is less efficient for lead than point-of-use treatment at the kitchen tap.
How to Verify a Filter’s Certification
Marketing claims are not certifications. The phrase “removes up to 99% of contaminants” on a filter box tells you nothing without a specific NSF certification number.
To verify any filter:
- Go to the NSF product search at info.nsf.org/Certified/DWTU/
- Search by brand name or model
- Confirm the specific cartridge is listed
- Confirm it shows NSF/ANSI 53 (for carbon) or NSF/ANSI 58 (for RO)
- Check the “contaminant reduction claims” to confirm lead is listed
A filter can lose its certification if a manufacturer stops paying annual fees or fails retesting. Verify periodically, not just when you buy.
Point of Use vs. Whole House
For lead, point-of-use treatment at the kitchen tap is the right approach. Lead enters water primarily through:
- Lead service lines connecting the water main to the house
- Lead solder used in plumbing joints in homes built before 1986
- Brass faucets and fixtures that contain lead (even some labeled “lead-free” contain up to 0.25%)
These are all at or near the tap. Treating all water entering the home adds cost without proportionate benefit, since you’re not showering in lead-contaminated water or watering the lawn with it in meaningful quantities.
Install an under-sink RO or NSF 53-certified faucet filter at the kitchen tap. That’s where you drink and cook. That’s where the protection belongs.
Replacing the Filter on Schedule
A lead-certified filter that’s past its rated capacity provides no protection. The certification testing assumes the filter is within its rated lifespan.
Replace cartridges on the manufacturer’s schedule, not when you think the taste has changed. Lead is tasteless and odorless at typical tap concentrations. You won’t notice when a filter is depleted.
Set a calendar reminder when you install any cartridge.
Where to Go from Here
For product comparisons, see:
- Best under-sink RO systems, top NSF 58-certified options
- Best pitcher water filters, which pitchers are actually certified for lead
For more on lead in plumbing and who’s most at risk, see lead in drinking water.
WaterAnswer.com provides general information only. This page is not a substitute for water quality testing by a certified laboratory or guidance from a licensed water treatment professional.
Sources: EPA Lead in Drinking Water | NSF/ANSI 53 | NSF Product Search